We booked the least expensive non-stop flight out there, Hainan Airlines (yeah, me neither) steerage, non-stop from Boston, just under 15 hours flying time. The experience was like being back in the 1980's. Lovely service, interesting food choices, both Chinese and Western, a Dreamliner aircraft with advance climate controls providing a 6,000-foot altitude, higher humidity, more "natural" lighting, all of which kept the long flight from officially being agony. Opted for middle section seats, and the guy next to us moved so we had that bit of extra space, a big deal.
Of interest to me was that the entire flight but for the last half hour was in daylight as we flew west but the aircraft windows were darkened a la nighttime for the entire flight (so much so that we never even knew we were landing until we touched down) except for meal service times. People were quiet, oh so quiet, and hardly anyone was using any sort of electronic device, very different from flights in the US.
We went through a tedious, expensive, incredibly detailed process to get our Chinese visas, and boy, were they checked thoroughly every step along the way, by everyone in Boston, even when boarding, and by Chinese Immigration officers (a very serious bunch there).
After clearing customs, when running the gauntlet of 100's of drivers holding passenger name signs, here's Holm, a nice late birthday surprise for Allen.
So glad Holm knows his way around. He conferred with the driver of an "unauthorized" cab, and the almost-one hour (white knuckle) drive across town cost about $30. Our Marriott Courtyard is not in the most touristy area, but in a great location nonetheless, within reasonable walking distance of lots of places we want to see. It's a bargain at an average of $115/night, 4 stars, and includes the most amazing breakfast on the planet...for one of us, which works out because Allen doesn't do breakfast most days.
What time zone is it? But really nice to be together again.
Because of the 12-hour time change, Holm is going to work his regular schedule this week as we'll be zombies. So we headed out on our own on a misty, grey Monday morning to walk in local neighborhoods.
Although we are staying in a hotel ghetto of sorts, as soon as we cross the river we are in one of Shanghai's neighborhoods of old, small alleys with crumbling two- or three-story housing blocks.
Turns out they are famous for all the wrong reasons. "Shikumen" are disappearing rapidly as the government moves everyone into highrise apartments. That's what's driving the massive construction projects we see everywhere here.
The NYT did an article on shikumen a few years ago, and it's amazing to see it happening right in front of us, on our first day in Shanghai, no less.
No cars in these alleys, just bicycles, bicycle carts, and motorized scooters. The smell is a sewer/iron mix (and it permeates everywhere we've walked, not just these neighborhoods).
Outdoor communal sinks are where the dishes and clothes are washed, shoes are left on the front step or in the windowsill, and laundry is hanging everywhere from wires and pipes overhead or simply on hangars in doorways.
Lots of red underpants, red being the color of luck.
Around another corner are more traditional apartment buildings.
Then the next block brings a monster high-rise apartment complex, newer by far but still with laundry hanging on every balcony or in every window. I suspect the newer residences are results of various five-year plans.
One shocker was realizing that, right behind our hotel, under the ramp leading to the river bridge, were places where people lived. Dark, concrete, ventilation? These homes look just like cells to me. The smells and sounds must be horrible.
Along the Wusong River lush landscaping with an occasional fountain or piece of sculpture. The sidewalks are high school rubber track material, with painted lanes and distance markers, all to encourage exercise, I assume; the little old ladies sure were out there trucking.
Public toilets are popular because indoor plumbing isn't taken for granted, and neither is toilet paper. In fact, we were advised by many to BYO. I'm ready!
One of my favorite photos of the day. Allen gave her 10 yuan, about $1.30. Her praise and thanks were effusive, to say the least.
Another favorite, this guy in his green Mao coat and the overloaded biketruck.
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